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I was there two weeks ago and was likely the first weekend of
the season due to very cold temperatures there up to the first week of
April.
Its a beautiful place although quite small. The streams which feed the
canyon are running full force right now due to snow meltoff in the
mountains. The Obsidian Wall is unclimbable at the moment as it is
currently an 80 foot waterfall.
Likewise, the Three Yogis climbs are doable but the base of the climbs
are under water at present. The steams are dry in the summer months but
there's been a lot of water up there so many of the cracks are dirty
inside from the dirt washing over the canyon rim from rains, etc. Be
prepared for mud from the car down to the canyon rim as well as the top
portions of the climbs — a tarp for rope and to stand on in climbing
shoes would be smart.
The cracks are mostly parallel sided, so a double rack of cams would be
preferable, although few cracks are over 80 feet. Toprope is probably the
fastest way to hit the most cracks in a day as you can use the same tree
anchor for several different climbs by simply flipping the rope over to
the next crack and rapping back down to the canyon floor. Lots of
opportunity for double crack climbing and stemming which is always lots
of fun but far too rare at E-rock. Rock is fairly solid but might want
to take a helmet for some climbs as the pathway runs along the canyon
rim and there are lots of small rocks which could get nocked off onto
your head by people and/or dogs.
The setting is sublime and on Thursday I had the place all to myself.
From sunrise till about 10:00 a.m. you can have it all to yourself even
on weekends due to the remote location. Enjoy!!
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