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This issue's featured climb takes you to the Greenbelt in Austin Texas. This particular climb is on Seizmic wall. You will find it listed in Texas Limestone II under Seismic wall (15. 5.10- Bolts w/wide anchors). You may have noticed that most of the climbs on
that wall were put up by people of few words and infertile imaginations when it comes to naming climbs. I chose this nameless wonder because it kicks ass and it would be difficult to do the start of this climb without the benefit of beta. I know because
I wasn't able to do it without some help the first time I tried it. A year ago, I walked up to this climb and, with some helpful beta, was able to red point it on the first try. A year later, I figured that it would make a nice warm up and gave it another go. This time
it was a whole different story. I tried the crux move several times before slamming the ground and injuring one of my wrists. It was three months before I could climb normally on that wrist. It was then and there that I decided to share the beta on that climb. I
highly suggest that you stick clip the first bolt unless you have the first move wired. Impressing the chicks is not worth sitting on your ass watching tv and eating Haagen-Daaz ice cream for months waiting for whatever you hurt to heal. Besides, not only have you been off climbing forever, you also have to pull your newly acquired fat ass
up the rock once you've healed...
15. SEISMIC WALL-5.10a
- Walk up to the climb
- Move up on chalked-up pockets with left hand to start
Right hand in sinker 2 finger undercling pocket
Left hand on down-sloping edge/sidepull about 1.5 feet up
and 3 feet to the right of the bomber undercling
Before going for the obvious ledge under the bolt.
- Take a
moment to look for your next foothold. This is important!!
- About 2.5 feet below and 8 inches to the left of the undercling
is a good positive tiny foothold which is hard to see if you
don't know it's there. This hold is your friend.
- Put your right foot on this hold
- Move your left foot up to the pocket you started the climb on.
Getting to the ledge is the crux of the climb but don't worry, I'll walk you through it. You can do two things here. I've successfully done this move either way. - Take a deep breath and psyche yourself up for this move.
If you're lucky, it's on toprope. If not, you're screwed since the success rate for making this move is about 25.005531%. You don't believe me? TopRope's top secret agents have been monitoring this climb for months and meticulously tabulating these results so I could give you that precise figure. They said I was crazy but what's wrong with that anyway?
- Go for that obvious ledge with your left hand while walking up into the undercling. I prefer this way myself since it lets you maintain control of the situation and if you miss on your first attempt, you can control your fall by holding on to the undercling.
 Go for that obvious ledge with your right hand and dead point to the ledge.
Because the sidepull is higher, you may feel like you have less distance to cover this way. The danger here is that if you miss the ledge, you will take a pretty nasty fall since the momentum of going for the ledge is going to bring you off the sidepull.
It seems like with this advice that you would always go for the ledge with your left hand but when you get to the move you will understand the dilemma and will most likely try it both ways before you find what works for you. - Pop right hand up a couple of inches to a good flat ledge Look up right for a shitty down-sloping hold.
It's slopes down right. It is better far back into the hold but not great Move up on very sketchy footholds while attempting to crank on this hideous sloper
The first time I did this I was terrified. I was clinging to that sloper for dear life. I climbed past it and looking up said "Where's the next bolt?" My belayer laughed and said "You passed it." Oh. I passed it. My leg was shaking but at least I was fairly solid to clip that bolt.
- Go for the huge ledge about 1.5 feet up Move right hand up to the next ledge full of crumbly-looking pockets
- Put your right foot on down-sloping shit hold
- Stem your feet out and go for big ledge about 1 foot above the second bolt There is a small piece of flint that you can grab to get to a standing position on ledge.
- Move up on big dish with left hand.
From here on out it's pretty much easy shit so just get up however you feel like it by traversing to the right. - Put your right foot on the ledge by your right knee Put your left hand in pocket on corner
- Put your right hand on the big flint block Grab the small pocket by the chains Clip the chains and you're there
Disclaimer: I am in no way responsible for anything in this article that may not exactly represent the truth. I'm typing this at my desk and not dictating to a secretary while I'm climbing, so give me some slack for any discrepancies you may find when actually attempting to follow this beta guide.
Jan Capps |
